Palampur- Joy diluted


Ah! my beloved Palampur. I had meant to do two posts. One on the history of Palampur, some of which I dug up during walks this time and another one on the new-ness of Palampur reflected in things like the increased number of hand holding couples in Kanwar Sita Ram Park at any given point of time in a day. A sign that the town is growing and how!

Since I stepped out of house for education and other mundane things like work and marriage, I have never had this kind of time to spend lavishly on walks around the town. The time I did not spend looking at the Dhauladhaars was spent in contemplating the changed town. What stuck me most was that Palampur is becoming filthier. I dread that it might turn out to be a Kullu or a Simla. Oh that would hurt so much.

The sight of Neugal Park was heart wrenching. The beautiful white cast iron structures which form a large part of my memories at Neugal, are no longer there. Despite plaques claiming CM's inauguration of this (the khudd) and that at the Park, the only remnant of times gone by, a bridge is bereft of even a lick of paint. There is a great inflow of tourists from Punjab but hardly any public utilities around, so the jungle nearby is being desecrated.
Neugal Cafe
An old gentleman, I am told, is making an effort to put bins all over the town, whom I must remember to meet the next time i am in town. I have just kicked myself mentally, for not making time for this in this visit only. Like the rest of the country, the deplorable condition of the town owes its existence to the lack of political will it seems. The bureaucracy seems to give little hope. The state government has no vision for the DevBhumi so I can't think it would be bothered about the small town. The other water bodies in and around the town are also leading a humiliated condition, a part of blame where of can be put on the environmental degradation and part on human intervention in the form of tourists from Central India who come in truckloads, see a kuhl and download in great numbers to relieve themselves, take a (holy!) dip, cook their meals and wash their clothes all at the same point.

Most of the kids of my generation have settled outside of the town for the lack of career opportunities in the state, whereas many outsiders (notably from Bihar and UP) have raided the nearby villages, bought land and labour at cheap rates and created personal heavens in the name of doing social work. (It is okay if you think I am jealous. I am. terribly.) The lovely tea gardens have been cut to make way for the bungling ways of the new generation or the new monies, I am not sure but if money and time had been spent in exploring tea, the owners and the town would have profited only.
Tea Gardens near Bundla

My visit lasted from May 14 to June 3, 12 probably the best time for tea plucking but the gardens at Lohna and Bundla had no labour present. Some would like to blame NREGA but.... Palampur is going through a massive change. a couple of get-togethers that I attended brought this fact closer home. The discussions (amongst my generation) ranged from the price of land in Palampur and the cost of an apartment in Chandigarh to the latest offerings from the jewellery houses of Paprola that have now made home in the bog shopping complexes near and around Yamini.

A mall is coming near the new bus stand, I am sure that would help in adding colourful topics like availability of clothing brands. No one spoke/ discussed about books, politics on the national level, sports, films, art or music. I remarked this to a man-of-the-world kind of Uncle, who gave me a pitying look. I think he meant that I was unfortunate enough to be asking this or maybe I had not 'mingled' with the right kind of people. Later on, I was forced to think about the hopelessness of the question and my use of the word 'intellectuals' in that particular conversation. Not all is going the wrong way with the town though. It still smells fresh and tingling at all hours of the day. The bus-stand wala soda is still the source of undiluted joy. (Though it now costs Rs 15 and sells a pudina concentrate plastic bottle at Rs 120.)

The pine trees are still dropping their chilgozas as a special treat and the fun that was to slide down the dried up twigs remains much the same. I took my daughter on some of the walks and she would point out cows and crows and eagles and I would think aah! the shehari bachcha.

Comments

Prerna said…
Never been there, but you evoke images that transported me as I read the piece.
Pity about the pollution and corruption. I hoe we do something about it before all this turns into distant memories.
Unknown said…
Go "green" and make a difference to the planet. One person can make a difference. It begins with an earth-friendly consciousness. It begins with you.
Crazy Diamond said…
Have observed over the years about how much my pahari dost love the simple life and beautiful surroundings their home state offer. Also realize that most are living it out in the plains because of the stark realities of existence and sustenance. But there could be ways of making sure your home does not lose its soul to modern day assaults like shopping malls andpollution. One is to write about it but another is to find locals who are working in this direction and help them, maybe even financially. In such drastic cases, Governments only make a significant difference when there is something as stringent as dictatorship. It's always about civic consciousness and the hills Will only be saved when people want to save the treasure -- thoughts of an almost-pahari
amu said…
Dear Prerna, the purpose of the blog link on FB is/was to reach out to folks from Palampur. I dont know how many of them have come across or might come across the link. I think there is apathy on our part. I would hope that this shakes up things a bit for the few who may matter to the town's future.
amu said…
Ranjan, let me assure you the beginning with me had taken place a long time back. I think this is the next step, so spread the word, my friend
amu said…
Hey Almost-crazy-pahari, yes us pahadis love the simple life and b"ful surroundings and thats why some of us are trying to jostle up consciences, if nothing else, and yes the civic consciousnes by bringing home the point that we need to save the hills, valleys and the mountains. thanx for the read. :)
Unknown said…
Nice Blog...you brought the memories back.
harish said…
Good reading :) Life is nothing without nature

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